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The archetypal nonconformists, rebels can be tough but sensitive; ground-breaking, but with principles. And, each of them has a fascinating style of his or her own.
FASHION & CINEMA presented a series of screenings and talks which explored the rebel’s aesthetic world, and their stories from behind-the-scenes. Iconic films and images of rebellious men and women recall Marlon Brando, Steve McQueen and Katharine Hepburn – all of whom have an enduringly fashionable timelessness.
THE WILD ONE
dir: Laslo Benedek
with Marlon Brando, Mary Murphy, Lee Marvin
USA | 1953 | b&w | 79 min | PG
Denim trousers, t-shirt, carefully tilted cap, black leather jacket and “engineer” boots. Marlon Brando’s outfit created for this film in 1953 is as relevant today as it was then. It became a counterculture emblem, emulated later by many; from James Dean and Joan Jett, to Kristen Stewart and Jeff Goldbum. Although the film features one of the most iconic men’s film outfits, there’s not a credited costume designer, and it was Brando himself who picked up the costume (it seems the motorbike was his too) that would become a cultural icon.
Inspired by actual events, and based on Frank Rooney’s short story “The Cyclists Raid”, The Wild One, which was censored in the UK until 1968 for its controversial nature, shows how two motorbike bands terrorise a small town after one of their leaders is put in jail.
Introduced by writer, editor, director and model Davina Catt
THU 24 FEB | 6:35PM
WOMAN OF THE YEAR
dir: George Stevens
with Spencer Tracy, Katharine Hepburn
USA | 1942 | b&w | 114 min
A timeless romantic comedy, Woman of the Year takes us through the story of two rival journalists who fall in love with each other, in spite of their opposite lifestyles. Hepburn’s costumes by Adrian, whose impact on fashion both on and off the screen would be enormous, are empowering and elegant, luxurious and easy, tailored but casual – just as was Hepburn’s own personal style. Here we can see the iconic shoulder pads Adrian created in 1939 for Joan Crawford, which would influence fashion throughout – and beyond – the1940s.
The second child of politically progressive and socially conscious parents, Hepburn soon became famous for defying conventions – and that included wearing pants (ie trousers). Her gender-ambiguous and comfortable style became widely popular in a time where submissive, “busty blonde” women dominated screens.
Introduction by curator, writer and film historian Keith Lodwick
SAT 26 FEB | 4:15PM
dir: Peter Yates
with Steve McQueen, Jacqueline Bisset, Robert Vaughn
USA | 1968 | col | 114 min
Maverick San Francisco police inspector Frank Bullitt takes an investigation on alone, when mobsters kill a witness under his protection. A gripping neo-noir film, Bullitt includes the most exciting and famous car chase on the sloping streets of San Francisco and, of course, some of the most iconic and emulated outfits worn by Steve McQueen, not by chance known as the “King of Cool”. Desert boots, trench coat, blue turtleneck, brown tweed jacket with elbow patches worn by McQueen made this style immediately cool.
The film’s costume designer, Theadora van Runkle, seems to have taken inspiration from McQueen’s own wardrobe to create his onscreen costumes. An enduring icon of style still as relevant today as he was in the 60s, McQueen gave everything he wore a simple, laid-back stylishness, combining classic American sportswear with outsider European touches. Quiet, tough and comfortable in his own skin, he cares little or nothing for the opinions of others.
Introduced by Joana Granero Sánchez, Founder & Director, FASHION & CINEMA
SUN 27 FEB | 4:35PM
ABOUT DAVINA CATT
Davina Catt has written and edited for Vogue, FT, Interview and as contributing editor at Violet magazine. She wrote/directed a documentary with talking heads including Stephen Fry and regularly speaks at venues such as Bafta, Fashion & Textile Museum, V&A and Conde Nast College as well as BBC Radio. Her main interests are fashion and film and she regularly consults on and features in brand projects/campaigns too.
ABOUT KEITH LODWICK
Keith Lodwick is a curator, writer, and historian. He is the former Curator of Theatre and Screen Arts at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. At the V&A, Keith curated Vivien Leigh: Public Faces, Private Lives and was the V&A assistant curator for the major exhibition Hollywood Costume, one of the most successful exhibitions in the museum’s history. Keith has contributed to a wide range of publications including Oliver Messel: In the Theatre of Design, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty and Shoe Reels: The History and Philosophy of Footwear in Film.
ABOUT JOANA GRANERO SÁNCHEZ
Joana Granero Sánchez is the founder and co-director of Fashion & Cinema. Born and raised in Spain, she spent some time in Italy before moving to London, where she created the London Spanish Film Festival in 2005. She started Fashion & Cinema in 2012, producing and curating its content. She also works as an independent curator and producer as well as a lecturer (New York Fashion Institut of Technology, Florence).
Special thanks to: